From the Rhine Falls to the idyllic village of Stein am Rhein
The tourist appeal of the Rhine Falls is strong, and many people travel to visit Europe's largest waterfall in Canton Schaffhausen. Fewer, however, travel from this hub to visit another masterpiece of this region, the small town of Stein am Rhein.
Along the course of the Rhine is this medieval gem that retains unspoiled charm and many architectural gems in the form of castles, monastic cloisters, and richly frescoed guild houses.
The hamlet is very small and a few hours will be enough to visit, but if you have time on your hands, visit the museums, lose yourself in a sunset on the riverfront, climb through the vineyards on a trek to the top of the castle.
You can start your visit from the Untertor, from the large parking lot at the edge of the center. Walk along the Unterstadt to reach the Rathausplatz square, where most of the frescoed buildings are concentrated, and to which the town hall, with its lattice facade and clock tower, is the backdrop.
You can return to the starting point by walking along the Obergass, to observe more hidden blocks, with a few clearings surrounded by half-timbered houses, and go down to the Witches' Tower (Hexenturm) by taking the riverside promenade.
This route will already give you a general idea of the town, which is an uninterrupted succession of buildings dating from the 1300s-1400s, or faithfully reconstructed, with rich murals depicting animals, scenes from the Decameron, scenes of town life, brightly colored wooden or brick bay windows, and colorful lattice buildings.
The Stein am Rhein tourism website, offers a detailed description of all the town's facades of historical and artistic value, to follow step by step in your exploration.
MONASTERY OF ST. GEORGEN
This Benedictine abbey dating back to the year 1000 is truly a hidden treasure. The very austere structure on the outside, it stands by the river, and includes a series of rural buildings in front, such as tool sheds, cooperages, and courtyards with direct access to the water.
Inside hides an architectural treasure. In addition to the refectories and cloisters, which are the most classical rooms you would expect to find on a visit to a monastery, you can delve into the dormitories, feast halls, and abbot's rooms. It's all a succession of inlaid wooden alcoves, wooden rooms illuminated by the splendid light filtering through ornate glass windows, carved ceilings, and frescoes upon frescoes, in an ensemble of incredible richness.
It is worth spending time there, perhaps pausing to observe the river from the herb garden, or losing yourself in looking at the ornate floors and frescoes inside.
The cost of admission is 5.- Chf, last admission 30' before closing.
BURG HOHENKLINGEN
From the riverside, you can observe the building looming on the high hill behind the town. Hohenklingen Castle is a beautiful medieval castle nestled in a thriving forest, a visit to which, before or after the town, is certainly worth the short trip (or the long trek), if only to admire the expanse of the river, the woods, and the village of Stein am Rhein from above.
The building dates back to the 13th century and belonged to the Klingen barons of Thurgau. The castle was built to protect the small town of Stein and the monastery of St. Geogen against threats that might come from the Rhine, where the trade of goods between land and sea alternated. Today's construction is the result of additions up to 1430.
When the castle lost power over the city in the 1500s, it became a prison and a lookout point for fires around the city; it also remained the northernmost defense of Canton Zurich, to which it belonged, until the mid-1800s.
Today, a visit to the castle is free, you can browse through a couple of courtyards and climb the many steep steps to the top of the tower, from which there is a magnificent view.
In addition, the castle now houses a restaurant, and in summer has a few tables on a covered terrace overlooking the village. One can drive up to the foot of the castle and continue the ascent on foot up the stairs. There are no elevators or accessible areas, as the castle is under strict cultural heritage protection.
