Serifos: the rugged beauty of the Cyclades
Serifos is among the lesser-known Cycladic islands, but just watching a sunset among its rugged heights or from the churches of the Chora is enough to be left enchanted. We fell hopelessly in love with it.
There is something unusual about this island, it may be its bustling harbor in a hirsute and dusty cove, the impressive high ground on which the old town rests, looking like a stern Olympian mountain against the leaden sky, or glowing with light on sunny days, or the wind lashed mountains that seem to never stop rising until they drop ruefully into the rippling sea.
This island is defined by rock and mountains; vegetation is almost absent except for the rough bushes that make up the vegetative scrub typical of Greek islands. Its mountainous nature makes it a trekker's paradise, and if you visit in a temperate season you can hike the dozens of marked trails that take you to majestic viewpoints toward the Aegean.
VILLAGES
Livadi is the harbor, a bustling center full of stores, restaurants, and accommodations, easy to reach landing from the ferry, and with every convenience within a 5-minute walk. In the evening, it comes alive with lights, colors, and scents. It offers magnificent craft and clothing stores (among the finest are Βούς, Calle 31, for those looking for clothing by local designers, Θητα, for gifts and ceramics), hidden among its narrow white alleys. You will have to go here, wherever you are staying, to buy provisions and more. It has two beaches within easy walking distance and restaurants for every taste.
Chora is the old town, which watches over the harbor from above. To reach it, you'll have to sling on the steering wheel and drive along the winding road that reaches the top of the hill behind the harbor. If you find it open (since opening hours are definitely approximate) you can stop and buy a modern ceramic handicraft from Kerameio along the way. Small and dense with small and mostly abandoned white houses with blue doors, Chora unfolds in a fan on the side of the slope hidden from the harbor.
It is home to very nice cafes, good restaurants, and a few scattered little stores. Walk down the main alley that enters the settlement from the clearing over which the mills stand, and you'll come to a steep, white-trimmed staircase that reaches two churches with endless views of Livadi, the harbor bay, and the surrounding headlands. The town square is decidedly hidden (you can find it by looking for the Seriani restaurant), reached by descending from the west side of the highest church, following the hand-painted signs on the walls. Or by climbing the steep steps with no signs, to the right coming from the parking lot to the first small village square. Well, welcome to the world of Greek islands without addresses.
The colorful square, with its blue church dome, will stand out among the narrow alleys as an unexpected surprise. Choose to go there for a drink at sunset; there is a fairy-tale atmosphere.
Megalo Livadi is a tiny marina to the west of the island. To get there you will enjoy wonderful views, including golden slopes, boundless sea and white churches dotting the landscape. It's worth going this far to browse the ruins of the old metal mines that are actually scattered throughout the island, once an important metal mining center. Megalo Livadi is home to the most striking archaeological site, with rusting rails and trolleys, a trestle bridge overlooking the sea, and tunnels still accessible. If you have courage and perhaps a flashlight, you can cross one to the beach that hides at the far end, or so we were told.
LODGING
If you have tried to look for accommodation on Serifos, you may have noticed an unusual number of places referred to as "secluded." In fact, as we wandered around the island we realized that apart from the harbor village and Chora, the historic part, the island is uninhabited, but there is no shortage of small clusters or individual houses scattered just about everywhere. You will surely be able to find remote and undisturbed lodging, perhaps with an exceptional sea view.
However, services, of course, are only in the two centers near the port, Livadi and Chora.
We stayed at the Pendè Suites, which are located right in the center of Livadi. Convenient to all amenities and family-friendly, they are beautifully designed and really comfortable. Too bad they are right in the middle of the agglomeration, with no space for parking and no view. Of the same suites, however, are more remote villas, not suitable for families with children, but with exceptional views and equally attractive design.
We also found the resorts on the eastern shore of Livadi beach to be very nice, convenient for getting to the beach, with nice views of the sea and Chora.
RESTAURANTS
An excellent balance of traditional taverns and innovative eateries, you will find restaurants for all tastes in Serifos, including ethnic, which is definitely unusual for the Greek islands. Of course, most are concentrated at the port, but Chora and some beaches also offer delicious alternatives.
Axinos
It is located in Livadi, more secluded than the restaurants in the harbor series, and because of this it also reserves a more intimate and pleasant atmosphere.
Greek cuisine with Mediterranean influences, reinterpreted in a modern and elegant way, in a casual setting, with the outdoor area with wooden stuffed chairs directly on the beach. Very good mains, copious quantities and tempting desserts. They prepare an excellent barbecued octopus.
Seriani
This delightful eatery, with an uncovered and covered outdoor patio, overlooks the main square of Chora. The atmosphere around it is fabulous in the evening, and the dishes are from modern Greek cuisine. Salads are imaginative and excellent, such as the deconstructed spanakopita in salad form. We tasted a truly memorable shrimp orzo.
Taverna Nikoulias
This spartan family tavern has a prime vantage point on the small beach of Platis Gialos, with a very picturesque (windy) terrace overlooking the sea.
Don't expect gourmet or seafood cuisine, because here they serve hearty meat and vegetable dishes from their own farm. The quantities are really enormous, so don't over-order if you want to get to the bottom of at least one dish.
