Travel to Sifnos Island
Sifnos smells of eucalyptus. Every gust of wind mixes the smell of freshly baked cookies with that of fig leaves. Every nook and cranny is cloaked in caper plants with their round green leaves and white flowers.
The small island of Sifnos is a modest version of the Cyclades for a quiet, food-focused trip. Reachable by ferry from Milos or Santorini, the island is only served by 2 or 3 ferries a week, depending on the season.
The island was once an important center of pottery production, and it remains famous today for its craft stores producing decorative or kitchen wares. Also connected to this art is the culinary tradition, with preparations that draw their origins from the use of kilns and ceramic crocks for long cooking. The island of Sifnos is also famous for being the birthplace of the first Greek cookbook in history in the 1930s, and has since boasted the title of culinary hub.
THE VILLAGES
You disembark at the small port of Kamares, a delightful though small and touristy town that offers several options for those waiting for the ferry to arrive, in terms of food, bakeries, small craft stores, and a beautiful beach with clear waters and golden sand.
From here everything on the island can be reached with at most a 15-minute ride. The island is unusually green and almost completely terraced with camouflaged stone walls that at moments blend in with the buildings, which are not always lime-plastered.
The main center is Apollonia, a small scattered expanse of white houses with a central street running through it, dotted with beautiful stores selling Greek handicrafts, jewelry and clothing. A nice place for a little evening stroll and to get lost among the stores, but not particularly rich in memorable sights.
For a sunset stroll and a taverna dinner, it's best to head to Kastro, the island's most historic center, where a handful of half-abandoned houses covering a rocky outcrop, crowned by the stone castle, look out to sea in a white, blue-domed church perched on a peninsula towering over the waves.
The last village to explore, this time from a distance, is the small port of Cheronissos, north of the island. More than the village itself, which is of no particular value (as is the beach), it is the view of the fjord from the promontory of Agios Georgios that deserves a few photos and a pause to observe the sleepy fishermen's houses, the boats floating on the waters, and the sound of the quiet sea in the inlet.
THE BEACHES
Sifnos' beaches are few but quiet and mostly sandy and family-friendly.
PARALIA KAMARES
equipped beach | free with shade / fine sand / beach bar / taverns and convenience stores nearby
We start at Kamares, the harbor beach, a sandy crescent with a nice view of the mountains, a church with a white staircase, and the small village. Several bars and restaurants have access to the beach, which is partially equipped, while the free part enjoys several trees under which to find some shade.
There are very few boats arriving in the small marina, and one does not have the feeling of being close to an infrastructure. In addition, there is sun until late in the afternoon, and the relaxed but bustling atmosphere is really pleasant.
FASSOLOU
free beach with shade / coarse sand / beach tavern
Although Faros beach is better known, Fassolou beach, right next door, is much more pleasant. Few people reach it, making it a quiet corner of the island to swim in the calm, crystal-clear waters. The tavern behind the beach is a good choice for lunch.
PLATIS GIALOS
equipped beach | free with shade / fine sand / beach bar / taverns and convenience stores nearby
The quintessential family beach, close to a small village, equipped, with plenty of taverns and services nearby. However, the beach is very narrow and there is little space behind before reaching the buildings.
VATHI
equipped beach | free with shade / fine sand / beach bars / taverns nearby
Vathi is a sandy beach that is difficult to access, as the sea comes to lapping at the taverns that face directly onto the shore, and to get from one widening to the other you have to cross the water. However, the end of the beach is very wide, with access to equipped areas and bars, and the sea is quite accessible for swimming, except for some areas with pebbles.
THE FOOD
It did not impress us with enchanting beaches or fairy villages, but Sifnos definitely knows how to win over palates. It may be that culinary traditions on this island are much more deeply rooted than elsewhere, but in Sifnos we found an unusual dining scene. At decidedly modest prices, you can find restaurants that revisit Cycladic cuisine in a gourmet version. And there is no shortage of the spartan tavernas that often make trips to Greece memorable.
Cayenne
Along Apollonia's main street is this restaurant, which in addition to a very pleasant location, with a patio shaded by a large fig tree and lit by lanterns, offers modern cuisine that leaves a mark. We recommend trying the caper risotto, whose incredibly new flavor you will not easily forget, and the roasted squid, which is very soft and hearty.
Okialos
Just across the street from the former is this somewhat more refined tavern, where we recommend sampling traditional island dishes, such as Revithada, a full-bodied chickpea and onion soup traditionally cooked overnight before Sunday lunch in stone ovens, and Mastelo, a baked lamb stew with potatoes.
Astro
This authentic, spartan taverna is located in Kastro and offers traditional dishes, mostly meat, in huge portions, like any self-respecting good Greek taverna. The vegetables and lamb are excellent.
Fasolu Beach Bar
Just behind Fassolou beach is this taverna that offers refreshment on hot days with traditional dishes and fresh fish. We found the local barbecued tuna and the Greek salad with local cheese instead of feta, the best we tasted on all the islands, to be excellent.
Manolis Taverna
One of the taverns that interrupts the sandy expanse of Vathi, at this restaurant you can eat right by the sea. The fish dishes are all tempting, and the ingredients very fresh.
NUS
It is located on the beach at Platis Gialos, and we recommend getting there before sunset. This restaurant has a beautiful terrace overlooking the sea and offers dishes with ingredients grown on its own farm. The cuisine is local and gourmet, though totally affordable, and the atmosphere is that of a family tavern, although the dishes are presented in a refined manner.
The fried baby squid are outstanding, among the best I've ever had. The handmade crab pasta is very special and the vegetable and cheese balls with yogurt sauce memorable.
Gerontopoulos
Finally, this bakery is a must stop in Apollonia. Follow the scent of sesame and cinnamon and be tempted by cookies, breadsticks, pastries of all sorts. It also has a terrace for breakfast and a very pleasant inner courtyard.
