Lofoten Islands: road trip from South to North
Arriving by ferry from Bodo, one immediately senses the distinctiveness of this archipelago: an endless succession of sharp peaks that are lost in the mists of the sea, seamless between one and the next. It seems like a surreal place, with the roads bouncing over the islets one viaduct after another, the expanses of stockfish on the rocks, the little red or yellow wooden houses that look like they were drawn by a fairy tale illustrator. There is no place that does not leave you enchanted, so walk them from south to north and absorb their essence. Our route winds from island to island, from Å i Lofoten to Andenes.
MOSKENESØYA AND THE DEEP SOUTH
You land in Moskenesøya, and to start exploring Lofoten from the Deep South, take the E10, which runs through its entire extent, and arrive at the last outpost, perhaps the most renowned village in Lofoten, if only for the bizarre, synthetic name: Å.
It is pronounced "o" and is really the best known place for tourists to the beautiful northern islands. We didn't find it the most beautiful place in the archipelago, contrary to common opinion, but it is still worth pushing on to the southern tip to browse among the rorbuer (fishermen's houses) floating on the waters.
This tiny, disused port suffers from the presence of the unused infrastructure that now rusts in the sun, after having been used for centuries for fishing and drying cod. In addition, its fame among visitors means that a large parking lot has been set up at the entrance to the village, which unfortunately comes to the fore in every viewpoint around it.
However, the place remains quiet and picturesque, and with a few steps you can visit it completely. It houses a stockfish museum for lovers of the genre. Stop at the local bakery, however, to secure a mouth-watering kanelsnurre, and go and enjoy it at the vantage point accessed just after the parking lot on the right, from which you can see the village, the southern tip of the island and the mountains surrounding Å.
Heading back toward Moskenes you will be tempted to stop at every colorful hut that stands out with its stilts on the water. But wait until you reach Reine, for really hundreds of better opportunities. There are many viewpoints here, and the bay is at its best at sunset, when the sky is tinged with a thousand shades of pink that are reflected in the waters among the little red houses. The road to Hamnøy is a succession of bends between islets and rorbuers.
In Reine take the opportunity to climb up to the viewpoint on the Reinebringen (the excursion is described in this ARTICLE) and perhaps dine in one of the village's traditional restaurants, a treat for the eyes as well as the palate, with their historically decorated interiors that will warm even the coldest of days. Our choice: Gammelbua.
You will have to travel the road to the next island for a magnificent stretch among verdant islets with very high peaks alternating over the waters, until you reach the last destination on the island of Moskenesøya, which cannot be reached otherwise: the village of Fredvang. From here the excursion to Ryten and Kvalvika beach starts. (LINK)
FLAKSTADØYA
We resume the beloved E10 on the second island encountered coming from the south, Flakstadøya. Wonderful, snow-white beaches, such as the beautiful Rambergstranda, and enchanted villages peeking out of fabulously colored fjords, whose waters lap long shallow bays dotted with granite rocks. On the shore to the south you reach Nusfjord, which in addition to a really well-kept harbor, amid colorful rorbuers, hanging fishing nets, stockfish adorning the cornices of houses, and a few seagulls nesting on the windows, you will also find excellent food. I hope you can arrive in the morning, on time for a freshly baked cinnamon bun from the Hansines Bakeri, or for lunch under the sun kissing the fjord, outside on the pier, in the Karoline restaurant, which will serve you a plate of steamed shrimp with warm bread and butter good enough to make you swoon.
VESTVÅGØY
From small Flakstadøya to large Vestvågøy, to climb the Mannen and admire the beautiful beach of Hauklandstranda. (LINK) Then don't miss the little secret walk we scouted in Rambergvika, best at sunset, with the midnight sun enhancing the thousand little islands by the sea. (LINK)
AUSTVÅGSØYA
Another beautiful trek will be at the heart of your visit to Austvågsøya, the one that reaches Fløya Trail Head, with a privileged view of Svolvær Harbor.
ANDØYA
Our last part of the trip, before embarking to leave Lofoten and reach Tromso, was devoted to reaching the port of Andenes, on the furthest tip of the island of Andøya, to make a whale-watching excursion. Unfortunately, after a wait of hours for a delayed departure due to fog and rough seas, the excursion was completely cancelled. With great regret, we returned to the mainland. But if you are luckier than we were, we recommend making this beautiful experience, booking well in advance.
