Astypalea: the red windmills island
Imagine the candid beauty of the Cyclades, made up of whitewashed villages shimmering above the sea and blue-domed churches, merging with the rugged, lush geography of the Dodecanese islands, home to harbor villages that descend steeply to the sea in a deep inlet. A host of mills soar over the ridge, whitewashed, but with red roofs that contrast with the blue of the sky. Such is the elegant Chora of Astypalea, an island on the western edge of the Dodecanese archipelago that embraces Cycladic culture in no uncertain terms.
Astypalea can be reached fairly easily by ferry from Kos, a couple of hours by fast ferry.
A breathtaking view welcomes you as you arrive from the harbor, which unfolds into a sweeping inlet dominated by the drape of white houses that makes up the island's main village. This is crowned, on the saddle between two hills, by eight perfectly maintained mills, pitted like red-and-white pearls, and at its highest point by a ruined stone castle over which soars the blue dome of a church.
It's easy to visit the main village of astypalea: you get lost in the white alleys, climb up and down stone steps, climb steep cobblestone streets, but you always find yourself with the vast sea in front of you and the castle behind. The dark stone castle contrasts with the white of the houses. From the Venetian era, the castle seems almost transported to this island from another universe. Of course, there are magnificent views of the island from the steps leading up to the walls. Through the large wooden portal, you enter a labyrinth of ruins surrounding two well-preserved churches. Keep your hat firmly on, for the winds do not spare this high ground, lashed constantly, but enjoy the 360-degree views from collapsed walls and loopholes to the sea and surrounding islands.
The center of Chora thrives on contrasts, abandoned houses, inviting cafes, and designer and fashion stores worthy of a major mainland city. The town square, just behind the mills, is lined with many restaurants and taverns from which to enjoy the sunset atmosphere.
Besides Chora, there is another small town on the island, Analipsi, near some beautiful beaches. The small core consists of a few houses, a few interesting fish taverns and a few small stores or bakeries. It is not as much of a center to explore as the Chora, but the atmosphere at sunset, with the silence broken by the lapping of moored boats and the waves rolling back on the shoreline, is a perfect setting for dinner or a walk on the beach.
If you visit Astypalea for the beaches, don't expect expanses of white sand: the island is wilder but the beaches are no less beautiful. You have to go some miles from Chora to look for the best beaches, but just admiring the rugged, mountainous landscape you cross to reach them is worth the trip.
Staying in the Chora is the best choice, to have the opportunity to stroll in the evening and enjoy a beautiful view at sunrise or sunset. Plenty of accommodations can also be found in the harbor area, further down the sea, or next to Livadi beach.
From our experience, accommodations that are behind Chora, on the road leading to Livadi, or those behind the mills, on the highest road in town, offer better views. We stayed at the Tholaria Boutique Hotel, absolutely recommended. Nothing luxurious, but this family-run hotel has very cozy rooms, with jacuzzi in the balconies overlooking the sea, a comfortable pool from which you can admire the sea and the castle, and, above all, an unparalleled culinary offering. The owner's mother prepares cookies, savoury dishes and desserts every morning, different every day, that will keep you glued for a long time to the breakfast table. Enjoy all the delicacies on the terrace overlooking the sea.
