Weekend in Ljubljana
If Slovenia surprised us with the beauty of its natural landscapes, we were equally fascinated by the beauty of its capital city. Ljubljana is among the most pleasant capitals we visited in Europe, and enriched by the colors of autumn it certainly had an extra quid.
2 days are more than enough to admire what this city has to offer, but it certainly deserves more than a weekend to enjoy its riverfront cafes, the sparkling evening atmosphere, the beautiful craft stores in the center, the marketplace, and the large castle park.
ITINERARY IN THE CITY
Virtually all of the city's attractions are located along the arm of the river between Zoisova cesta and Resljeva cesta, where the central market is located, spanning two or three blocks along the river. Also, in general, the city's old buildings are on the eastern bank of the Ljubljanica, while the western bank has the commercial area, museums, and more modern buildings.
An early morning stroll along the eastern bank of the river, before it is overrun by bar tables, will give you a sense of a peaceful and quiet city, very different from what you will find on the same bank after dark.
Grab a brioche at Osem's, on the edge of the old town, and from here, head up Reber ulica, a steep street leading up the Castle hill. Alternatively, there are a tourist train and a funicular railway that leave from the Old Town, which will make the ascent easier. If you travel with family, grab a baby carrier and leave the stroller at the hotel.
The castle park is worth a walk in itself, and in autumn offers very pleasant light and colors. You can walk freely among the castle buildings and climb the walls to see the view from above. You will need a ticket to the tower and museum instead.
Head back toward the center by walking along Študentovska ulica, and you will find yourself at the Central Market, a sparkling place to stroll in the mornings, among the fruit and flowers, and nice cafes in the stable market buildings. From here you can walk back down the Old Town street, which consists of 3 consecutive lengthwise squares, Mestni trg, Stari trg and Gornji trg. This area offers many craft stores among which it is worth spending a few hours browsing.
At sunset, return to the riverbank and find a café from which to watch the passersby and listen to the cheerful chatter of people.
The next day, cross the river, and enjoy the view of the castle towering over the city buildings on the opposite bank. The neighborhoods away from the river are very quiet, and pleasant for a walk exploring the city's less-traveled streets. Arriving at the Kongresni trg you will breathe in the majestic air of the 8-900-esque representative buildings, and continuing on to Prešerenov trg, you can see the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) one of the symbols of the city, as is also evident from the crowds that constantly invade it. From here you can sweep through the adjacent streets and blocks, trying to spot the beautiful Art Nouveau facades that alternate with the more modern buildings.
The riverbank is a very pleasant place to relax, watch the street performers, munch on chestnuts under the warm autumn sun. Alternatively, this neighborhood offers plenty of stores and department stores among which to get lost looking for a book or some article of clothing. Or some fine museums to visit. In the evening, among the clubs and restaurants, the Novi trg area is a sizzling hotspot for nightlife.
WHERE TO STAY
Staying downtown is ideal for exploring the city, and lodging prices are fairly low, at least in the season we visited (October). However, lodging in the medieval city definitely poses limitations, such as having to park a long distance away, outside the central agglomeration, as well as accessibility for families, with strollers on the cobblestone streets that are uncomfortable to navigate, or worse among the alleys with stairs and steep climbs.
Our lodging, as inconvenient as it was to get to with a 1-year-old, stroller and suitcases, still turned out to be a great place to walk everywhere from and lean on during the day. It also offered a nice view from the terrace and spacious accommodation ideal for a family.
LINK: Stella Sky Apartments
