Singapore for Foodies: 8 secrets you need to know
What do I eat in Singapore? The answer is simple: whatever you desire. There are no limits to what you can find in Singapore in terms of cuisine, but one thing is for sure: after 5 days in Singapore, I still haven't figured out what the typical cuisine of the place is.
Singapore is a crossroads of cultures and people, each of the generations that have passed through this small island have brought different flavors, textures, and ways of eating. Rather than true local cuisine, in Singapore you can find so-called "Singapore-style" dishes, reinterpretations of especially Chinese and Malaysian culinary elements. Japanese, Indian, European cuisine...you can find almost everything, concentrated in this small city-state.
To survive in Singapore you need to know a few little secrets that will make your life easier.
1. STOCK UP ON FOOD BEFORE YOU HIT THE ROAD
First of all, no eating or drinking in the subway and public transportation stations. And I mean you can't even drink water, which is not easy especially when traveling with a small child. It is also forbidden to carry durian in trains, as specific signs say, but that's another funny story. 🙂 Honestly, I also got the impression in other parts of the city and in shopping malls that it is customary not to consume snacks while walking around. I didn't find any specific laws about this, but let's just say that I tried not to seem disrespectful of local customs.
2. EATING EARLY IS BEST
There is always eating in Singapore, and for locals, eating is a real hobby, especially if it allows you to duck into some air-conditioned mall and escape the humid heat outside. So, you won't struggle to find food at any time of the day.
But beware: restaurants in Singapore close very early indeed. You will rarely find anyone to serve you food after 9 p.m., even in fast food restaurants.
3. RESTAURANT FULL? NO PROBLEM
The type of food that is served is mostly divided by neighborhoods. Not that you can't find restaurants with very different cuisines in the same neighborhood, but in general, if you are looking for a Japanese, or Chinese, or Indian restaurant, these are mostly on the same block, or even on the same street, one after the other. If you can't find room, you can go around the corner and still eat the ramen you've been craving at another establishment.
4. RESERVATIONS ARE BETTER, BUT IT'S NOT ALWAYS POSSIBLE
Precisely by virtue of Singaporeans' love of food, you will often struggle to find a seat in an establishment. Very frequently you will find yourself having to stand in line outside and wait for a table. Sometimes it is a matter of going to the restaurant's "concierge" and putting your name on a list; other times, you will find a few stools, kindly arranged outside the restaurant, where you can perch in patient waiting. If you are unlucky, you will have to stand in line and wait.
5. NO IDEA FOR LUNCH? GO TO A MALL
In addition to "traditional" restaurants, the Food Court concept is all the rage in Singapore. In a place so different from the ones I'm used to, I had one certainty: where to find last minute and cheap food. In the basement of every mall (and there are so many of them) there is a Food Court, a very large and chaotic space invaded by communal or private tables, and surrounded by street food stalls. In these areas, almost exclusively Asian food is served, pre-eminently Chinese, but with different variations, from Indonesian, to Thai. Service is fast and spartan, mostly food is delivered on plastic trays and dishes, all self-service. But the modest prices and huge variety of choices make them ideal places for an unplanned meal on the fly. Beware, because the closing time for food courts is even earlier than everywhere else.
These are also great places to find a freshly squeezed juice to refresh yourself, or a sugar cane juice, or to do your grocery shopping, as there is always at least one supermarket.
6. EATING IS A LUXURY
It is true that in food courts, prices are more affordable, but in Singapore, it costs so much to eat that the most expensive restaurants in Zurich (for no more than two weeks after our return 🙂 ) seemed cheap. Even in unpretentious restaurants, spending 40-50 Dollars per person for dinner is the norm, and there are no cheaper alternatives.
Not only that, even in hotels having meals is a luxury few can afford lightly. Breakfast is almost never included, and if you want to buy it you will have to spend the modest sum of about 30 Dollars per person. And if you think that going shopping at the supermarket will save you a few dollars, we will talk again when you have bought a jug of milk for 13 Dollars.
7. BRIOCHES AND BREAD LIKE IN EUROPE
If you have traveled a bit in Asia, you will have realized that starting as early as breakfast, fish, eggs and even noodles or meat take center stage on tables, especially the more traditional ones. Singapore is an exception, as Japan had been: in both places, in fact, the bakery is an established concept, and you will find everywhere these almost utopian places where you can hoard the softest breads, savory canapés, buttery brioche and cookies. All you have to do is walk in, find the tray depot, grab a clamp, and pick up whatever you want from the display cases. Arriving at the checkout with the overflowing tray, the attendant will carefully bag everything for you.
8. BABIES ARE ALWAYS WELCOME
Unlike most places we have visited, in Singapore, the reception of children in restaurants is almost regal. It never happens that there is no high chair; in fact, they will promptly bring it to your table without even asking. Before they set the table for the adults, they will take care to bring a full set of plastic tableware with colorful designs for your child. In addition, a babysitting service is often practically included 🙂, as Asians are particularly attracted to Western children and waiters will repeatedly come and play with your little diner. Not infrequently, they will also give them some small toys to entertain themselves.
Now that you know all about Singapore's gastronomic etiquette, you're ready for some recommendations on the restaurants that excited us the most.
Simple and tasty oriental cuisine: DIN TAI FUNG
This franchise serving Chinese/Taiwanese food is an institution in Asia. It has several locations in Singapore as well, with plenty of places for guests. It is not uncommon, however, to find it full, especially at the Marina Bay location. Choose it for soup with wontons, dumplings or Xiao Long Bao, very tasty dumplings filled with broth that will create an explosion in your mouth.
Malaysian comfort food: SONG FA Bak Kut Teh
Literally translated it is pig bone tea, this is a typical Malaysian dish. But fear not, it has nothing to do with the drink of the same name. It is an extremely flavorful and spicy broth, with large amounts of garlic and pepper, in which pork ribs simmer until tender.
Song Fa is an institution for sampling this dish, and one can hardly tell by the queue surrounding this tiny, spartan eatery, with large tables inside the cramped kitchen space, and a few tables on the sidewalk. The broth is outstanding, one of the best dishes eaten in Asia. But other dishes we tasted such as glazed pork are no less tasty. Accompany it with a few vegetables and some rice.
Dumplings elevated: DUMPLINGS DARLING
What else could serve this iconic place, which stands out in the array of restaurants surrounding Boat Quai thanks to its giant food mural. Packed to capacity, with very little space inside or out, it's worth it even just for a takeaway. You can choose from many different flavors, both classic and original. In addition to the traditional pork dumplings, we tried those filled with smoked duck with balsamic vinegar glaze and pickled onions: an extraordinary experience.
Best tempura: GINZA TENDON ITSUKI
There is a place in Tanjong Pagar that prepares Japanese dishes, and in particular specializes in Tendon, a steaming bowl of rice with fish and vegetables in tempura. The place is tiny and reservations cannot be made, but it is like a little wooden corner of Japan, hidden behind typical noren curtains, with no sign, barely visible from the outside. Dishes are special and the menù is minimal, just tendon, accompanied by miso soup or noodles and copious soy sauce.