Foodies weekend in the Langhe region
There's nothing like the scent of truffles that envelops a cold autumn day, and the Langhe is the perfect place to get lost in the streets of towns and villages on the hills, inebriated by the scent of autumn.
It must be beautiful in summer, with lush green vineyards that plough the hills of Piedmont's most famous wine region, but autumn is the perfect time to visit these areas, when the cities are invaded by producers and traders of the fairs of the underground mushroom that smells of paradise.
Alba, Asti and the smaller villages, throughout the month of November, become the scene of culinary fairs, auctions of truffles, a bustle of tourists, amateurs, restaurateurs and experts who compete for the most beautiful and expensive mushrooms in the world. And for ordinary visitors like us, there is a gastronomic world to explore in the frame of picturesque villages and hills.
ALBA AND THE TRUFFLE FAIR
Alba is a beautiful town in the heart of the Langhe. Throughout the month of November it hosts the international fair of the white truffle, which consists of a series of events of various kinds: Michelin-starred chefs take part in cooking shows to prepare a dish of truffles under the eyes of the participants, which can participate to tasting by paying an entrance fee of about 40 €; the truffle fair (entrance 4€) displays the certified products of local producers who collect truffles and sell them pure or as bases of oils and condiments, and offer tastings like sunny-side-eggs or tajarin (a variety of homemade pasta) with a grating of white truffles; the noble palaces of Alba (and Asti) host events such as markets of handicrafts, literary presentations, conferences with chefs and food critics.
The streets of the city are taken by shops that improvise dehors with stands of products based on truffles, like cheese, pasta or honey, and sell mushrooms as jewels in display cases. Restaurants are literally invaded, by Italians and foreigners, and it is difficult to find a place. So book well in advance (at least 2 weeks) and enjoy a truffle-based lunch or dinner. The dishes usually have a standard price ranging from €27 to €40, depending on the category of restaurant where you eat. These are typically eggs, pasta or meat tartare with a generous grate of white truffle.
In Alba one of the best places to enjoy a delicate truffle dish is the restaurant La Piola. The tajarin are well seasoned and abundant, the meat tartare superb and inventive, the second courses, such as braised beef cheek, unexpectedly good, and even desserts with hazelnuts and chocolate are absolutely to be recommended.
Average price for a truffle-based dinner, 60-70€.
THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGES ON THE HILLS
Among the hills of the Langhe there are some villages that are worth a visit. They are small clusters of colorful houses and a short walk will be enough to visit them, but the atmosphere that reigns is pleasant and the view of the hills and surrounding villages, with the typical castle that stands out, is exceptional.
Starting from Alba, you can drive up and down along the ridges and valleys of the Langhe hills, through picturesque and quiet villages. The architecture of the houses is often disappointing, and don't expect stone houses clustering along cobbled streets, as they are as anonymous as 1950s buildings that have developed around the almost omnipresent medieval castle. Although the buildings are not of great value on their own, the settlements are very expressive, especially when viewed from a few hills further on, which offers a panoramic view. Their position at the top of the hills surrounded by vineyards, then, ensures an impressive view from the city viewpoints or from the streets surrounding the castles.
The first village you come across is Roddi, with its castle, colourful houses and a winding asphalt road that crosses the vineyards and offers ever-changing views of the town. A perfect place to see it is the road that leads to La Morra.
La Morra is perhaps the most famous place in the Langhe, after Barolo. Here, too, the town centre is no bigger than a few steps, but boasts a wide viewpoint in the village square, from which you can enjoy an infinite view of the hills.
A little further south you arrive at Barolo, perhaps the most characteristic village in the area. Here there are a few cobbled streets and a few stone buildings that give character to the village, culminating in an imposing castle that houses the wine museum, and dotted with numerous wine tasting and delicatessen shops.
Returning toward Alba, on an almost parallel road, these villages remain as a backdrop, while crossing the tiny village of Castiglione Falletto, dominated by an abandoned castle, and the small town of Grinzane Cavour, where instead the majestic castle of the famous Count of Cavour attracts several groups of tourists. We could not take advantage of them because of the cold and the first snow that covered the valleys during our visit, but from here unravel many hiking trails through the vineyards and lead to other villages.
We have only seen from afar the Castle of Serralunga d'Alba, but this imposing and elegant presence will not miss in any photo and glimpse from the surrounding villages.
We went as far as the village of Cissone, almost at the edge of the langhe, through Monforte d'Alba. Although the village does not have much to offer, the panoramic road that crosses it offers one of the most beautiful views of the surroundings, towards the Langhe, on the one hand, and towards the Alps beyond the endless valley of Cuneo.
In Cissone you can enjoy another excellent truffle-based meal at the Locanda dell'Arco. As a must, our lunch consisted of raw meat, tagliolini with white truffle, and a delicious rabbit stew with vegetables. Prices are lower than Alba, and truffle dishes range from 25 to 30 €.
A last recommended stop, before leaving the Langhe territory, is the small village of Novello, on the edge of the region. The village is nice but really tiny, while the neo-Gothic nineteenth-century castle that dominates the hill is a real treasure. If you have the opportunity, you could stay in the hotel that now occupies it.
This content is NOT SPONSORED, but based on my genuine personal experience. Spontaneous opinions, positive and negative, shareable or not, that I hope will help to live better travel experiences. My advice is a guide to lead you through world explorations, but the real journey, you build it!
