Prague in a weekend
A succession of colourful moulded buildings, bow-windows, gables and dormer windows topped by small spires. The bohemian atmosphere of Parisian alleys, the sequences of fashionable shops on the ground floor as if we were in Milan, silent and austere streets typical of Eastern European towns. The stone pavements reflect the morning light, torn by the steps of a rabbi on his way to the synagogue. A Jewish cemetery, and a synagogue again. A majestic square opens in front of it, flanked by colourful buildings and dark black stone monuments. Baroque, Gothic, Neoclassicism and Art Nouveau coexist in a harmonious ensemble among the picturesque alleys of the old town. Then the dense curtain of buildings opens onto Charles Bridge, where a silent procession of sandstone statues, with their imperturbable faces barely perceptible in black stone, acts as a sentry to another part of the city, stacked on the hillside up to the mighty castle dominated by the Cathedral. Spires on the palaces, pinnacles on the towers that guard the access to the bridges, domes and turrets, spires on the churches and bell towers that soar above the red roofs perforated by dormer windows.
This is a glimpse of Prague, the beautiful capital of the Czech Republic, which survived the wars with its elegant and untouched historic buildings, looking from one side of the Vltava River to the other.
If you want to visit Prague on a weekend, plan to split your visit to the two city centres on both sides of the river into two different moments: each one is full of attractions and takes a whole day.
On the first day visit Staré Město, or Old Town, is the beating heart of Prague, which orbits around the Staroměstské náměstí Square, known worldwide for the famous Pražský orloj astronomical clock. Although the crowds are constantly gathering in front of the clock tower to admire its hourly music box, this attraction is the least interesting part of the elegant square. The Gothic residential buildings that creep into the alleyways, the Cathedral of St. Mary of Tyn, and the elegant streets wedged with arcades and colourful facades deserve your full attention.
This area is frequented by many people and the best way to savour its beauty is to go out early in the morning, before it gets light, to enjoy the deserted alleys still lit by orange street lamps, but already shrouded by the dawn.
A beautiful neighborhood in which to stroll around to savor the elegant architecture of Prague, without the whirlwind of downtown crowds, is the Jewish Quarter, north of Staré Město. The synagogues and cemetery still attract many tourists, but in a more peaceful and quiet atmosphere.
In the East, it is worth going as far as the Powder Gate, or Prašná brána, which, like most of Prague's monuments, is black in colour because of the minerals contained in the sandstone used in these areas, which oxidises when exposed to the weather, giving it this gloomy colour.
Next to the Powder Gate is the Municipal House, or Obecní dům, a majestic and glittering Art Nouveau building that houses restaurants and theatres.
From here you can quickly reach Wenceslas Square, Václavské náměstí, a huge avenue culminating in the National Museum. The boulevard is busy and untidy, and apart from a few historic Art Nouveau façades that may cheer you up, it wasn't one of our favourite destinations.
The rest of the neighborhood can be visited zigzagging through the alleys, and running into beautiful smaller squares and monuments: walk along Havelská, a beautiful street leading to the pleasant Uhelný trh square, Staroměstské náměstí; Malé náměstí as well as Senovážné náměstí are very picturesque little squares; walk along Celetná, U Radnice and the crowded Karlova, the artery leading to Charles Bridge, one of the busiest streets in the Czech capital. Here it is highly recommended to pass late in the evening or early in the morning, if you want to avoid the human traffic jam, uninterrupted during the day.
End the day by climbing the 138 steps to the balcony of the Staroměstská mostecká věž, the Old Town Bridge Tower. From the gallery at the top you have a beautiful view of the river, Charles Bridge and Malá Strana, the district on the opposite bank dominated by the castle.
The second day in Prague deserves to be dedicated to Malá Strana, the Small Town. Before crossing the Vltava River, take a walk along the bank to the South, to look at the district from other perspectives, and once across the river, do the same to see the curtain of Baroque buildings on the southern side of the Old Town.
Cross the river on the magnificent Karlův most pedestrian bridge, perhaps the most picturesque bridge in Europe, undisturbed by traffic. It dates back to the second half of the 14th century and was commissioned by King Charles IV, whose name it bears. Walk along the 500 metres of shimmering paving, watched from the 30 statues of saints that barely stand out in the black sandstone, to Malostranská věž, the second gate that marks the entrance to Malá Strana.
Following this main thoroughfare you reach Malostranské náměstí, the main square of the district, dominated by the large Church of St. Nicholas, and continue on Nerudova, next to a parade of beautiful Baroque buildings. Take Ke Hradu and climb up to the large castle square, a lookout point overlooking the whole of Prague.
The castle, as you will immediately notice from afar, is the largest fortified complex in the world and occupies an area of about 70.000 square meters. It is a real citadel, with churches, palaces and artisans' alleys. You can visit it inside, but if you don't have time or interest in snooping around, most of the open spaces are accessible without a ticket, except for the Golden Lan, a small street with colourful buildings that have hosted artisans, writers and artists. We have not visited the Alley, as it is really too popular and crowded for our taste.
Finish your tour of the neighbourhood by returning to Hradčanské náměstí, taking Kanovnická, the picturesque Nový Svět alley, and then going up to Loretánské náměstí, where the Loreta, a famous convent, is located. Finally return to the river via Úvoz.
For some food and restaurant tips, read Prague from breakfast to dinner.
This content is NOT SPONSORED, but based on my genuine personal experience. Spontaneous opinions, positive and negative, shareable or not, that I hope will help to live better travel experiences. My advice is a guide to lead you through world explorations, but the real journey, you build it!
