24h in Toledo
A Gothic masterpiece with tastes of Andalucia, just a stone's throw from Madrid. Toledo was a magnificent surprise, a jewel perched on a hill in the arid countryside surrounding the Spanish capital.
Toledo is the perfect destination to spend a day strolling among historic buildings, Gothic cloisters, and Mudejar architecture. The following is an itinerary that skirts the city's most important architecture and meanders through less-travelled alleys away from the crowds of day trips.
Toledo can be reached comfortably by a half-hour train ride from Madrid Atocha, and the station, itself a jewel inlaid with wood, wrought iron and azulejos, is a 10-minute walk from the historic centre. The view coming from the station is truly impressive, with the castle towering over the built-up area stretched out on the hill across the river.
You can begin your tour of the city by crossing the Puente de Alcantara, over the Tagus River, and climbing immediately to the top of the hill. Don't worry if you don't plan to climb the steps that unfold from the Puerta de Alcantara, or if, like us, you have a stroller: continue a few meters to the right and you'll encounter an underground parking lot with escalators that reach the Miradero.
Start the itinerary from Plaza de Zocodover, which is teeming with people and pastry shops (since Toledo is famous for marzipan) and continue to the Alcazar. A visit to the castle depends on your interest; mostly it is an armoury: the building was rebuilt in the early 1900s and contains evidence of the Spanish Civil War.
From the small square in the southwestern corner, take the alleys that lead, even further west, to the imposing cathedral. This is a gigantic piece of architecture that fits uncomfortably into the dense urban sprawl, which does not allow a glimpse of the complex. A good vantage point is the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, where you can relax in the shade or stroll through the markets.
Continue the walk by skirting the Centro Cultural San Marco, located in a church, and reaching Plaza de el Salvador. Walk down Calle de Santo Tomé to reach the Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. Enter this wonderful building, of which the adjoining cathedral is only the prelude to a beautiful Gothic cloister, where it is most pleasant to spend time sitting in contemplation, in silence. Don't miss the wonderful inlaid wooden ceiling on the upper floor of the cloister.
You have gone through the entire historic centre, and it is time to turn back, continuing to explore the deserted streets of the city. Passing the Real Collegio de Nobles continue to Plaza Santa Eulalia and then to Plaza de Padilla, and further north to Plaza Santa Clara. Taking Calle Alfileritos and walking all the way down it, you return to the starting point at Plaza Zocodover. Crossing the Arco de la Sangre (and stopping at the famous Santo Tomé pastry shop), you can walk on to the stairs that lead back to the Puente de Alcantara.
We explored the length and breadth of the historic centre, but if you have more time to spend in Toledo, a glimpse in the new part of town, on the opposite hill, offers stupendous views of the historic centre and the castle.
For a gastronomic break, we recommend La Abadia brewery restaurant. This is a truly captivating establishment, carved out under the brick arches of a historic building, which winds through a series of small brick-and-glass rooms with tables that enjoy atmosphere and privacy. If you just want to nosh on some tapas along with a cerveza, you can sit on the rowdy and cheerful ground floor. Note in the menu to the fried artichokes with eggs and ham, an unusual and delicious dish.
